Sunday 14 February 2010

Granny's More Complex Star

Second of 2 posts tonight.  This square is more lacy and more complex than its sister "Granny's Easier Star".


Granny's More Complex Star by Tiggerbee

The example was made with 4 ply sock wool on a 3mm hook to produce a 6” square.  Different weight yarns will give different sizes.  The pattern has been tested with Worsted weight and a 5.5mm hook to produce a 12” square, and with DK weight and a 4mm hook for an 8" square.

I would recommend that the star is worked in the same colour yarn, but it has been worked in contrasting yarn here for the clarity of the illustrating photos.

American crochet terminology used throughout.


1) Chain 30 and taking care not to twist chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

2) Chain 3 (counts as first dc), then working into one loop only of each chain stitch, dc once into each of next 3 ch, 8dc into next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 8 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 8 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into next 5 ch, join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial stitch. Break off yarn.

3) Make a new chain of 30 stitches. Before joining, weave the chain around the first triangle, as per the 1st photo . You need to go under and then back over each side of the 1st triangle, so that there are 6 places where the two finished triangles will overlap. Taking care not to twist the chain, join with a slip stitch.

4) Repeat instruction 2. I recommend keeping your hook in the same place relative to the first triangle, and moving the second set of stitches round as you work. Your 2 finished interlocking triangles may not lie flat or regular at this moment – after a few more rows are worked, the loose ends can be used to tack the 2 triangles together.

5) Join yarn with an sc to any 5th dc of a triangle point.  Hdc, dc, * ch 6, dc in the 2nd dc of the next triangle point, hdc in next dc, sc in each of next 2 dcs, hdc in next dc , dc in next dc *, repeat 4 times, ch 6, dc in the 2nd dc of the next triangle point, hdc, sc, join with slip stitch to first sc. [Note: this round anchors each point of the star with 6 stitches around the point, and with chain loops between the points.]

6) Slip stitches until you reach the next chain space.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc) , (3 dc, ch2, 4 dc in chain space), * 2 dc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc, (4 dc, ch2, 4 dc in chain space) *.  Repeat from * to * 4 times.  2 dc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc, join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial ch 3.  Break yarn for colour change. [Note: your outline shape should now be a rough hexagon.]

7) Join new colour with sc to the chain loop above any point of the star.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in chain space), ch 2.  Move to the chain space halfway towards the next point of the star, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in chain space), ch 2*.  Repeat from * to * 10 times in the chain spaces above each point of the star and each midway point.  Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch 3.  Break yarn to change colour. [Note: your outline shape should now have 12 points.]

8) Join yarn at start of a chain loop above a point.  Ch 4 (counts as first tr), 3 tr, ch 2, 4 tr, # * in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop sc * repeat from * to * once, in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop 4 tr, ch 2 , 4 tr (this will be a corner). #   Repeat from # to # twice, then * in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop sc * repeat from * to * once, in next chain loop 4 tr, join with slip stitch into 4th chain.  Break yarn to change colour. [Note: this is the only round involving trebles, and they fill in the points on the previous round.  You may wish to add single chains between groups of stitches to help the design lay flat, if it is puckering.  Your outline shape should now be roughly square.]

9) Join yarn in middle of chain loop.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc, ch 2,  then (4 dc, ch 2) in each 2 chain loop and sc stitch of previous round across to corner.  In corner chain loop (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2).  Continue with the (4 dc, ch 2) sides and (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2) corners until the final corner is reached.  In final corner loop 4 dc, ch 1, joining with hdc into 3rd chain of opening stitch.  

10) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc, ch 2,  then (4 dc, ch 2) in each chain loop of previous round across to corner.  In corner chain loop (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2).  Continue with the (4 dc, ch 2) sides and (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2) corners until the final corner is reached.  In final corner loop 4 dc, ch 1, joining with hdc into 3rd chain of opening stitch.  

11) Repeat the instructions for step 10 until the square reaches the desired size.  For the photo example this was 2 repeats.  Tidy loose ends.


Copyright Jan 2010 Catkitbob designs

Granny's Easier Star

The first of 2 posts tonight. I'd been working on a star motif square, but following the comments on the pattern chosen to be February's Ravelry CAL square, there are now 2 versions. The star is the same. The rounds that follow are more straightforward in this version:

Granny's Easier Star by Tiggerbee

The example was made with 4 ply sock wool on a 3mm hook to produce a 6” square. Different weight yarns will give different sizes. If worked with Worsted weight and a 5.5mm hook it should produce a 12” square, and with DK weight and a 4mm hook an 8" square.

I would recommend that the star is worked in the same colour yarn, but it is shown in contrasting yarn here for the clarity of the illustrating photos.

American crochet terminology used throughout.

1) Chain 30 and taking care not to twist chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

2) Chain 3 (counts as first dc), then working into one loop only of each chain stitch, dc once into each of next 3 ch, 7dc into next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 7 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 7 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into next 5 ch, join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial stitch. Break off yarn.

3) Make a new chain of 30 stitches. Before joining, weave the chain around the first triangle, as per the 1st photo . You need to go under and then back over each side of the 1st triangle, so that there are 6 places where the two finished triangles will overlap. Taking care not to twist the chain, join with a slip stitch.

4) Repeat instruction 2. I recommend keeping your hook in the same place relative to the first triangle, and moving the second set of stitches round as you work. Your 2 finished interlocking triangles may not lie flat or regular at this moment – after a few more rows are worked, the loose ends can be used to tack the 2 triangles together.

5) Join yarn with an sc to any 4th dc of a triangle point (i.e. the top of the point). Ch 5, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 5, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, join with slip stitch to first sc. [Note: you should now have chain loops between the points (2 small loops and 4 larger ones).]

6) Ch 1 (counts as first sc), then in small chain loop 5 sc. Sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (4 sc, ch 3, 7 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (7 sc, ch 3, 4 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in small loop 5 sc, sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (4 sc, ch 3, 7 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (7 sc, ch 3, 4 sc). Join with slip stitch to first ch. Break yarn for colour change. [Note: you should now have 4 sides each of 15 sc, and 4 ch 3 corners.]

7) Join in corner. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), then dc into each sc of previous round. At corner dc, ch 3, dc. Continue with plain dc and corners until final corner - dc, ch, join with hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. [Note: stitch count - 17 dc per side]

8) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, skip 2 stitches, in next dc (i.e. 3rd) 3 dc, * skip 2 stitches, in next dc work 3 dc* repeat from * to * across to corner. In corner chain loop 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Repeat from * to * along each side, with corner loops of 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. [Note: stitch count - 8 groups of 3 dc per side.]

9) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, then 3 dc in each gap between the 3 dc groups of the previous round. In corner loop 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Continue with 3 dc groups along sides, and corner loops of 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch.

10) Option 1: Repeat instruction 9 until square reaches desired size.

11) Option 2: For a little variety, work one round of plain dc into each dc of previous round, with ch 5 on corners. On following round: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, skip 1 stitch then 3 dc in next stitch, * skip 2 stitches then 3 dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to * until corner. Skip 1 stitch, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Continue sides with 3 dc in the stitch above the central dc of each group of 3 two rounds below, and 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the corner loop. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. If further rounds are required to obtain size, repeat instruction 9.

12) Break yarn and weave in ends.

Copyright Feb 2010 Catkitbob designs