Gerbena Crochet Square

This design was actually created before Alter Ego - but needed a tweak, and finally finding some time to write it up.  Presenting Gerbena:

Gerbena 12” block

by Jacqui Goulbourn (aka Tiggerbee)

A lacy flower square

The example was made with 4 ply BFL sock yarn on a 3 mm hook to produce a square of 6”. If working with double knitting yarn on a 4.5mm hook the square should measure 8” or if working with worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm (I) hook the square should measure 12”.

Special stitches: Cluster = Work 4 dc into one stitch, but leaving last loop on hook each time until all 4 dc have been worked, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops (one from each dc, and loop from previous st).

Beginning Cluster = Ch 3, work 3 dc into stitch at base of the ch 3, but leaving the final loop of each stitch on hook until all 3 dc have been worked, yarn over and pull though all 4 loops (one from each dc, and one from ch).

American terminology used throughout.

Rnd 1: With Colour A ch 4, join into ring with slip stitch into first ch.

Rnd 2: Sc into loop 8 times, join round with slip stitch into first sc.. (8 stitches)

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, * ch 2, 2 dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to * 6 times, ch 2, join round with slip stitch into 3rd chain. (16 stitches and 8 2ch loops)

Rnd 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *ch 2, 3 dc in next chain loop* repeat from * to * 6 times, ch 2, 2 dc in last chain loop, join round with slip stitch into 3rd chain. (24 stitches and 8 2ch loops)

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *3 dc in chain loop, dc once in each dc*, repeat from * to * to end of round, join round with slip stitch into 3rd chain. (48 stitches)

Rnd 6: Beginning cluster, ch 4, skip 2 stitches of previous round, * cluster, ch 4, skip 2 stitches of previous round*, repeat from * to * 14 times and join with slip stitch to top of first cluster (16 clusters in total)

Rnd 7: Slip into next chain space. Create first corner in this chain space by ch 4 (counts as first tr) 2 tr, ch 2 ,3 tr, *in next chain space 6 dc, in next chain space 6 sc, in next chain space 6 dc, in next chain space 3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr*. Repeat from * to * twice, in next chain space 6 dc, in next chain space 6 sc, in next chain space 6 dc. Join with slip stitch to 4thchain.

Rnd 8: Slip stitch to corner. Ch 3 (counts as first dc) 3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc. Along side, *ch 2, dc in gap between different size stitches of previous round, ch 2, sc in between 3rd and 4th stitches of 6 stitch group * repeat until reach next corner loop, 4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc. Repeat for another 3 sides and 2 corners. Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain.

Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *dc in each corner dc of previous round. In corner loop 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Dc in next 4 dc, then 2 dc in each chain loop along side of square. * Repeat from * to * 3 times.

Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc of previous round, and in corner loop 2 dc, ch 2, 2dc.

Repeat round 10 until you reach your desired measurements.

Copyright 2010 Catkitbob designs

Alter Ego Crochet Square

This square is all about the colour choices. It is a very basic solid square, with minimal weaving of ends.

The example was made with 3 colours of 4 ply BFL sock yarn on a 3 mm hook to produce a square of 6”. If working with double knitting yarn on a 4.5mm hook the square should measure 8” or if working with worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm (I) hook the square should measure 12”.

You will require 2 stitch markers

American terminology used throughout.

Set-up: With Colour A ch 4, join into ring with slip stitch into first ch.

Rnd 1: ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc into ring 5 times, place marker in working loop. Join Colour B into ring, ch 2 (counts as a dc) dc into ring 5 times, join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of Colour A, and place second marker in working loop. (12 stitches)

Rnd 2: Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour A. Join to 2nd chain of Colour B on previous round. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, then 2 dc in each of the next 5 stitches, place marker in working loop. Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour B. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, then 2 dc in each of the next 5 stitches, join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of Colour A, and place second marker in working loop. (24 stitches)

Rnd 3: Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour A. Join to 2nd chain of Colour B on previous round. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), 2dc in next stitch, *dc in next stitch, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times, place marker in working loop. Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour B. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), 2dc in next stitch, *dc in next stitch, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times, join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of Colour A, and place second marker in working loop. (36 stitches)

Rnd 4: Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour A. Join to 2nd chain of Colour B on previous round. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in following stitch, 2dc in next stitch, *dc once in next 2 stitches, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times, place marker in working loop. Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour B. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in following stitch, 2dc in next stitch, *dc once in next 2 stitches, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times, join with slip stitch into 2nd chain of Colour A, and place second marker in working loop. (48 stitches)

Rnd 5: Keeping the established pattern of colour changing going, ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc once in next 2 stitches, 2dc in next stitch, *dc once in next 3 stitches, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times. (60 stitches)

Rnd 6: Keeping the established pattern of colour changing going, ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc once in next 3 stitches, 2dc in next stitch, *dc once in next 4 stitches, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times. (72 stitches)

Rnd 7: Keeping the established pattern of colour changing going, ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc once in next 4 stitches, 2dc in next stitch, *dc once in next 5 stitches, 2dc in following stitch*, repeat from * to * 4 times. (84 stitches)

Rnd 8: Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour A. Join to 2nd chain of Colour B on previous round. * Ch, sc in same stitch, then into each stitch of the round below work as follows 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, tr, (5 tr in next stitch for corner), tr, 3 dc, 3 hdc, 6 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, tr, (5 tr in next stitch for corner), tr, 3 dc, 3 hdc, 3 sc * place marker in working loop. Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour B. Repeat from * to * , join with slip stitch into first sc of colour A, and place marker in working loop. (100 stitches)

Rnd 9: Reinsert hook into the marked loop of colour A. Join to 1st sc of Colour B on previous round. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), then dc once in each stitch of previous round, until you reach the 3rd tr (middle of corner) - 5 dc in this stitch. Continue working one dc in each stitch and 5 dc in the corner, switching colour half way round.

Rnd 10: Keeping the established pattern of colour changing going, dc once in each stitch of previous round and 5dc in each corner stitch.

Repeat round 10 until you reach your desired measurements.

(Design note: It would be possible to work the circle element of this design in 3 colours, or the whole design in 4 colours – just divide the 12 stitches in round 1 by the number of colours to be used.)

Copyright May 2010 Catkitbob designs

Granny's More Complex Star

Second of 2 posts tonight.  This square is more lacy and more complex than its sister "Granny's Easier Star".

Granny's More Complex Star by Tiggerbee

The example was made with 4 ply sock wool on a 3mm hook to produce a 6” square.  Different weight yarns will give different sizes.  The pattern has been tested with Worsted weight and a 5.5mm hook to produce a 12” square, and with DK weight and a 4mm hook for an 8" square.

I would recommend that the star is worked in the same colour yarn, but it has been worked in contrasting yarn here for the clarity of the illustrating photos.

American crochet terminology used throughout.

1) Chain 30 and taking care not to twist chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

2) Chain 3 (counts as first dc), then working into one loop only of each chain stitch, dc once into each of next 3 ch, 8dc into next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 8 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 8 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into next 5 ch, join with slip stitch into 3^rd chain of initial stitch. Break off yarn.

3) Make a new chain of 30 stitches. Before joining, weave the chain around the first triangle, as per the 1st photo . You need to go under and then back over each side of the 1^st triangle, so that there are 6 places where the two finished triangles will overlap. Taking care not to twist the chain, join with a slip stitch.

4) Repeat instruction 2. I recommend keeping your hook in the same place relative to the first triangle, and moving the second set of stitches round as you work. Your 2 finished interlocking triangles may not lie flat or regular at this moment – after a few more rows are worked, the loose ends can be used to tack the 2 triangles together.

5) Join yarn with an sc to any 5th dc of a triangle point.  Hdc, dc, * ch 6, dc in the 2nd dc of the next triangle point, hdc in next dc, sc in each of next 2 dcs, hdc in next dc , dc in next dc *, repeat 4 times, ch 6, dc in the 2nd dc of the next triangle point, hdc, sc, join with slip stitch to first sc. [Note: this round anchors each point of the star with 6 stitches around the point, and with chain loops between the points.]

6) Slip stitches until you reach the next chain space.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc) , (3 dc, ch2, 4 dc in chain space), * 2 dc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc, (4 dc, ch2, 4 dc in chain space) *.  Repeat from * to * 4 times.  2 dc in next sc, ch 2, 2 dc in next sc, join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of initial ch 3.  Break yarn for colour change. [Note: your outline shape should now be a rough hexagon.]

7) Join new colour with sc to the chain loop above any point of the star.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), (3 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in chain space), ch 2.  Move to the chain space halfway towards the next point of the star, *(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in chain space), ch 2*.  Repeat from * to * 10 times in the chain spaces above each point of the star and each midway point.  Join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch 3.  Break yarn to change colour. [Note: your outline shape should now have 12 points.]

8) Join yarn at start of a chain loop above a point.  Ch 4 (counts as first tr), 3 tr, ch 2, 4 tr, # * in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop sc * repeat from * to * once, in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop 4 tr, ch 2 , 4 tr (this will be a corner). #   Repeat from # to # twice, then * in next chain loop 4 tr, in next chain loop sc * repeat from * to * once, in next chain loop 4 tr, join with slip stitch into 4th chain.  Break yarn to change colour. [Note: this is the only round involving trebles, and they fill in the points on the previous round.  You may wish to add single chains between groups of stitches to help the design lay flat, if it is puckering.  Your outline shape should now be roughly square.]

9) Join yarn in middle of chain loop.  Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc, ch 2,  then (4 dc, ch 2) in each 2 chain loop and sc stitch of previous round across to corner.  In corner chain loop (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2).  Continue with the (4 dc, ch 2) sides and (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2) corners until the final corner is reached.  In final corner loop 4 dc, ch 1, joining with hdc into 3rd chain of opening stitch.  

10) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3 dc, ch 2,  then (4 dc, ch 2) in each chain loop of previous round across to corner.  In corner chain loop (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2).  Continue with the (4 dc, ch 2) sides and (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2) corners until the final corner is reached.  In final corner loop 4 dc, ch 1, joining with hdc into 3rd chain of opening stitch.  

11) Repeat the instructions for step 10 until the square reaches the desired size.  For the photo example this was 2 repeats.  Tidy loose ends.

Copyright Jan 2010 Catkitbob designs

Granny's Easier Star

The first of 2 posts tonight. I'd been working on a star motif square, but following the comments on the pattern chosen to be February's Ravelry CAL square, there are now 2 versions. The star is the same. The rounds that follow are more straightforward in this version:

Granny's Easier Star by Tiggerbee

The example was made with 4 ply sock wool on a 3mm hook to produce a 6” square. Different weight yarns will give different sizes. If worked with Worsted weight and a 5.5mm hook it should produce a 12” square, and with DK weight and a 4mm hook an 8" square.

I would recommend that the star is worked in the same colour yarn, but it is shown in contrasting yarn here for the clarity of the illustrating photos.

American crochet terminology used throughout.

1) Chain 30 and taking care not to twist chain, join into a ring with a slip stitch.

2) Chain 3 (counts as first dc), then working into one loop only of each chain stitch, dc once into each of next 3 ch, 7dc into next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 7 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into each of next 9 ch, 7 dc in next stitch for corner, dc once into next 5 ch, join with slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial stitch. Break off yarn.

3) Make a new chain of 30 stitches. Before joining, weave the chain around the first triangle, as per the 1st photo . You need to go under and then back over each side of the 1st triangle, so that there are 6 places where the two finished triangles will overlap. Taking care not to twist the chain, join with a slip stitch.

4) Repeat instruction 2. I recommend keeping your hook in the same place relative to the first triangle, and moving the second set of stitches round as you work. Your 2 finished interlocking triangles may not lie flat or regular at this moment – after a few more rows are worked, the loose ends can be used to tack the 2 triangles together.

5) Join yarn with an sc to any 4th dc of a triangle point (i.e. the top of the point). Ch 5, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 5, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, sc in the 4th dc (middle) of next point, ch 11, join with slip stitch to first sc. [Note: you should now have chain loops between the points (2 small loops and 4 larger ones).]

6) Ch 1 (counts as first sc), then in small chain loop 5 sc. Sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (4 sc, ch 3, 7 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (7 sc, ch 3, 4 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in small loop 5 sc, sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (4 sc, ch 3, 7 sc), sc in sc of previous round, in large loop (7 sc, ch 3, 4 sc). Join with slip stitch to first ch. Break yarn for colour change. [Note: you should now have 4 sides each of 15 sc, and 4 ch 3 corners.]

7) Join in corner. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), then dc into each sc of previous round. At corner dc, ch 3, dc. Continue with plain dc and corners until final corner - dc, ch, join with hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. [Note: stitch count - 17 dc per side]

8) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, skip 2 stitches, in next dc (i.e. 3rd) 3 dc, * skip 2 stitches, in next dc work 3 dc* repeat from * to * across to corner. In corner chain loop 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Repeat from * to * along each side, with corner loops of 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. [Note: stitch count - 8 groups of 3 dc per side.]

9) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, then 3 dc in each gap between the 3 dc groups of the previous round. In corner loop 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Continue with 3 dc groups along sides, and corner loops of 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch.

10) Option 1: Repeat instruction 9 until square reaches desired size.

11) Option 2: For a little variety, work one round of plain dc into each dc of previous round, with ch 5 on corners. On following round: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, skip 1 stitch then 3 dc in next stitch, * skip 2 stitches then 3 dc in next stitch*, repeat from * to * until corner. Skip 1 stitch, 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Continue sides with 3 dc in the stitch above the central dc of each group of 3 two rounds below, and 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the corner loop. In final corner 3 dc, ch, then hdc into 3rd chain of first stitch. If further rounds are required to obtain size, repeat instruction 9.

12) Break yarn and weave in ends.

Copyright Feb 2010 Catkitbob designs

On the Huh Crochet Square

On the Huh 12” block

The members of the Ravelry 12” Block a Month 2009 CAL have encouraged me to dust of my notes for this pattern, so that they could share it. This is my second attempt at pattern write-up, so again feedback is most welcome. So without further ado, here it is:



The name of this square is the local phrase for things that aren't lined up straight. If you are good with number patterns, you should pick up the triangle construction fairly easily.

The example was made with 2 colours of 100% cotton double knitting yarn on a 4.5mm hook to produce a square measuring 8” . These are the same measurements I get when following 12” square patterns designed for worsted weight yarn and a 5mm (H) or 5.5mm (I) hook.

American terminology used throughout.

Rnd 1: ch 5, join into ring with slip stitch into first ch.

Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as first sc), sc into ring 15 times, join with slip stitch into 2nd chain.

Rnd 3: ch 4 (counts as first dc), * hdc, sc, hdc, dc * , then repeat from * to * twice, hdc, sc, hdc, join with slip stitch into 4th chain. Change colour.

Rnd 4: Join colour B on next stitch, * sc, hdc, dc, tr, ch4 *, and repeat from * to * three times. Join with slip stitch to first sc, and end colour.

Rnd 5: Join colour A at start of 4 chain loop. * (sc 2, hdc 2 in chain loop), dc 2, tr 2, ch4 *, and repeat from * to * three times. Join with slip stitch to first sc, and end colour.

Rnd 6: Join colour B at start of 4 chain loop. * (sc 3, hdc in chain loop), hdc 2, dc 3, tr 3, ch4 *, and repeat from * to * three times. Join with slip stitch to first sc, and end colour.

Rnd 7: Join colour A at start of 4 chain loop. * sc 4 in chain loop, hdc 4, dc 4, tr 4, ch4 *, and repeat from * to * three times. Join with slip stitch to first sc, and end colour.

Rnd 8: Join colour B at start of 4 chain loop. * sc 4 in chain loop, sc, hdc 5, dc 5, tr 5, ch4 *, and repeat from * to * three times. Join with slip stitch to first sc, and end colour.

Rnd 9: Dc in each stitch of previous round, and in chain loop dc, ch3, dc 4. Join with slip stitch to first dc. End colour.

Rnd 10: Join colour A in corner loop. Ch 4 (counts as first dc), ch 3, dc in same corner loop, % * ch1, skip next stitch, dc *, repeat from * to * until corner loop, dc, ch3, dc, %. Repeat from % to % twice, and from * to * once more, joining with slip stitch into 4th chain.

Rnd 11: Dc 5 in each corner loop, and dc 2 into each chain space of previous round.

Rnd 12: Sc 3 in each corner dc from previous round, and sc into every other stitch. Finish off.